By thomandcoleyAugust 17, in Engines. In the past month I have:. Lots of black filthy water came out. The tech showed me the turbo and it was definitely jammed up and not able to spin freely. Drove away, still overheating.
Took it to Western States in Spokane WA and they hooked it to the computer and said it was not showing any codes. If I downshift all the way to 3rd, 2nd or 1st on my Allison transmission, and get the RPM's up to likeit still gets hot but doesn't overheat. Of course, I can only go like mph.
How to Troubleshoot an Overheating Engine
Doing lots of mountain driving in the next week. My wife and I travel for work, so if we are stuck somewhere not moving we are losing lots of money. A few folks have suggested the water pump.
Another guy said maybe it's a sensor, but it mainly overheats on big hills. Our manufacturer says we should only tow lbs, our car isevery mechanic I have talked to says the Cummins 6.
Not knowing what type fan your coach uses, but if it uses a clutch, that would be my first replacement. Just the clutch. I have also seen occasions where someone added the wrong type anti freeze, which caused coagulation, in this case the entire system had to be flushed and filled with the correct anti freeze.
If there is any oil residue, water alone will not clean it properly. It must be cleaned from the front-- meaning the bedroom or closet. What ever offers access to the fan shroud. And, absolutely verify that your clutched fan is operating as it should. The mechanic said he thought the fan clutch was operating properly, but they only tested it sitting still and not under a load on the road.
When it gets tothe overheat warning buzzer comes on. Usually we pull over and let it cool down once it gets that hot. One time I did this and the temp got all the way up to We had a couple days after the repairs where we drove it mostly on flat ground, pulling the car, and had no issues.
My motor home has had an overheating issue for several years. When dry that dirt was clogging the radiator. I put a bucket under the hole and was very surprised about how much dirt was collected in the bucket. Came back and did another hour. Quit and did another hour until I got clear water in the bucket. I drove to a chapter rally and for 50 miles drove st 70 mph. Before I could not drive for 35 miles at mph without the check engine light coming on.
When I returned home, I cleaned with the power washer again for 2 one hour sessions.
Again the bucket finally had clear water. I have decided that after every short trip, I will pressure wash from the outside, and twice a year I will clean from the inside.Is overheating under these conditions new or has it always overheated under these conditions?
You mention fan coming on at If no overheating, suspect thermosensor. Another possible cause could be an inaccurate gauge. In our coach, the analog gauges feed from a sensor installed by the motor home manufacturer. I have had problems with a number of these gauges. When I view the data directly from the engine sensors installed by Cummins, everything is fine. What gauge are you using for this data and what is the source of its input?
If you don't have access to the engine data itself, you should be able to go to Cummins and get a read out of the engine codes which should let you know if the engine is actually overheating. Usually when things like the temperature are way out of spec, the engine computer will shut down the engine.
I agree completely on the inaccuracy of many factory temperature gauges. Silverleaf and other much more accurate gauges are much more "believable. But, I have found that if the dash temp gauge reading goes up with the engine under load, it DOES indicate a problem. Whether the true "highest temperature" is or degrees F is likely not an issue.
That's not limited to your Mandalay. It's been seen in Winnebagos and Allegro Buses as well. I had a Allegro Bus that had similar issues.
The root problem is that Freightliner uses a 1, sq in radiator in those years. The cooling package was not vertically stacked but instead was nested so that the charge air cooler and oil cooler all passed hot air over the radiator.
That, coupled with the marginal size of the radiator made for some hot water temps in extreme situations. Freightliner had a number of service campaigns that were performed to my '04 Bus but they all were dealing with baffling the airflow, reflective heat tape on the air intake hose, and chanbging the Dexron hydraulic fluid over to 15W engine oil to keep the hydraulic radiator fan motor spinning better.
But, none of those made an appreciable difference because they didn't deal with the root problem - which was an under-engineered cooling package.Left alone, the liquid in the radiator eventually boils over, and steam rolls out from under the hood.
If your vehicle overheats often and constantly loses coolant, the problem may be leaks in your cooling system. If your vehicle overheats in normal weather and traffic, you may need to add liquid to the system, replace the thermostat, adjust or replace the accessory belt, or check the water pump. The first thing to check if your vehicle overheats often is the pressure cap. Sometimes the gasket on the cap deteriorates and lets pressure escape, which causes the cooling system to malfunction.
Here are some other circumstances that can cause a vehicle to overheat:. Have a service facility place your vehicle on an electronic diagnostic machine to check your timing and adjust it if necessary.
The remedy is to have a radiator specialist remove and inspect the radiator. If the belt seems loose or frayed, you can try to replace it.
Collapsing bottom radiator hose: Occasionally, a bottom radiator hose begins to collapse under the vacuum that the water pump creates, and the impaired circulation causes overheating. Under normal circumstances, you can prevent overheating by checking the level of liquid in the system and maintaining it properly.
How to Troubleshoot an Overheating Engine.By TimnjulieAugust 15, in Engines. Recently purchased 38' Damon Astoria M with hp cummins diesel pusher.
Cummins ISM overheating
Had motor, chassis, entire RV serviced at authorized RV shop. F and warning comes on info center. Returning from trip took if to RV shop and they put in new air filter, flushed radiater, put in new coolant, no change, still overheats.
RV shop says they don't know what else to do, any suggestions? Wish I had a good answer for you, but I can advise that you get as far away from that RV shop as possible. What they did is sinful. None of that would have caused your problem. A simple thermostat may be more likely, or a fan clutch.
They wasted your money and time. I would try to find a Cummins repair shop, usually at or near truck stops.
They know what to do and have everything there. They keep over-the-road trucks on the road and don't mess around. You can even join Cummins club and get discounts on parts and service. Good luck. Please let us know how things work out. Sounds like a partially plugged radiator. I don't think any amount of flushing will fix that. I notice with mine pulling a grade on a hot day it will hit to but I will not get a warning light. I would definitely look for Cummins service and not a RV shop.Donations help keep the lights on around here, Thanks in advance New: Rawze's amazon Page.
It helps keep the lights on around here and goes towards helping others with their trucks. Current time:Shoutbox Hello There, Guest! Threaded Mode Linear Mode.
Post: 1. I took it to the shop, they tested and let idle for 8 hours and it did not run warm or overheat. They gave truck back to me. I let truck idle for 1 and half hour before leaving Truck started to heat up past and climbing.
I turned the keys back over to shop to recheck. They replaced fan clutch, pressure tested system and changed thermostat. I picked it up and prepped to go back on the road. I idled truck that evening while sleeping I woke up after 6 hours of idling because AC stop blowing cold Truck was starting to overheat.
It overheated until it did an emergency shutdown due to being to hot. Shutdown at I took pics to prove to shop. They recommended dealer After 24hours and several hours of idling, test for cracked sleeve, head and or gaskets, Peterbilt states, "unable to duplicate complaint".
At this point, no one has a resolve. Peterbilt has recommended allowing Cummins to put it on the Dyno for stress test, etc.
Any suggestions I am baffled. Return to Top find.Discussion in ' Freightliner Forum ' started by zaheerkarimNov 13, Each company we work with has specific experience requirements for their drivers. In order for you to receive the best possible offers, please make sure your answers above are accurate prior to submitting.
Log in or Sign up. Find Trucking Jobs. Nov 13, 1. The truck drives well except for the temperature. Whenever going up hills the temperature rises well above half. I have to stop and leave at idle for a while and it drops, or i have to switch it off till it cools down. On normal flat roads it fine at normal. I was advised to get the radiator flashed and cleaned. Any thoughts please Dont want to cook up this this truck.
Name Email Phone Yes, let employers and TruckersReport text me with new opportunities, job alerts and other career information to the number I provided. There is no charge for this service, but standard message and data rates may apply. Nov 13, 2. Is your fan coming on as it should?
Nov 13, 3.
The fan is connected directly. Nov 13, 4. So it runs all the time? Never quits turning?Overheating can be a serious issue within a diesel engine.
Causes of Diesel Engine Overheating
It is important to not push an engine too hard under load for an extended period of time however job site conditions sometimes dictate extensive wear on the equipment. If you find your diesel engine is overheating the article below will offer some common places to diagnose the issue. The most obvious system to inspect upon discovering overheating issue is the coolant level. If the coolant is too low this can allow pockets of air into cooling system.
When air gets into the cooling system it will cause a reduction of coolant flow due to the presence of air bubbles. If you find coolant levels to be too low simply add more coolant to the engine. Other causes of air bubbles is the deterioration of the cylinder liner. When the combustion cycle occurs it causes tremendous pressures up to 65, psi with in the cylinder liner.
Over thousands of hours of operation, upon combustion, the liner beings to vibrate violently within the engine block injecting air back into the cooling system.
These tiny bubbles can then do damage to the liner in the form of pitting cavitation and eventually eat away the liner all the way to the cylinder bore. These holes will allow coolant to leak into the bore and reduce coolant pressure. The addition of a supplemental coolant additive is recommended to provide a protective layer of chemical nitrates to prevent liner damage.
Matching the quality of the coolant to what is already in the engine is important. The consistency of the coolant should have the following properties:. It is advised to drain the current cooling system and then flush out any leftover coolant. One the system is clean refill the cooling system with the correct amount of coolant, anti-freeze and water. Overheating can occur when two different coolant mixtures reach different boiling points. Follow the engine operations manual to the letter. The ratio is very important to each engine.
Coolant is very alkaline and coolant conditioner helps neutralizes the coolant from deteriorating the engine. It protects the stems, bearings, etc… The coolant conditioner stabilizes the cooling system and is very important. Make sure to flush the engine before adding any new coolant product or conditioner to the engine.Why Do Engines Overheat?
Air can enter the cooling system in many different ways. Abrupt inflow of air in the cooling system is a different diagnostic issue than air bubbles from caused by combustion pressure as mentioned in point 1.
The following are the most common ways air ends up in the cooling system:. Combustion exhaust can make it way into the cooling system in a number of ways including a damaged cylinder head, cracked cylinder head gasket, liner cracks or through a dropped valve. Exhaust gas is naturally much hotter and will cause engine overheating. Sometimes there is absolutely nothing wrong with the internal cooling system but rather a faulty temperature gauge, sensor or thermostat.
Temperature diagnostic systems might simply need to be re-calibrated.